Kayseri yağlaması

Thin rounds of yufka stacked five or six high with a spiced tomato and minced-meat sauce brushed between every layer, a spoon of garlic yoghurt on top and hot butter poured over the lot: yağlama is the dish Kayseri eats when mantı would take too long. The name comes from yağlamak, to oil or butter, and describes the method: each sheet is moistened with the sauce rather than filled, so the result is somewhere between a layered flatbread and a savoury cake, cut in wedges and eaten with a fork. It belongs to central Anatolia, to Kayseri above all and to Nevşehir and Niğde, and it is home food first, made for guests and for Ramadan tables, that has moved onto the menus of the city's mantı houses. Outside the region it is barely known, which is one reason to order it where it is made.