Name: Maharet Mantı Ankara & Kayseri Yağlaması
Address: Büyükesat, Uğur Mumcu Cd. No:79/3, Çankaya, Ankara, 06680, TR
Telephone: 0537 388 35 38
Rating: 3.7

Türkiye

Turkey

Ankara

Çankaya

Maharet Mantı Ankara & Kayseri Yağlaması

Thin rounds of yufka stacked five or six high with a spiced tomato and minced-meat sauce brushed between every layer, a spoon of garlic yoghurt on top and hot butter poured over the lot: yağlama is the dish Kayseri eats when mantı would take too long. The name comes from yağlamak, to oil or butter, and describes the method: each sheet is moistened with the sauce rather than filled, so the result is somewhere between a layered flatbread and a savoury cake, cut in wedges and eaten with a fork. It belongs to central Anatolia, to Kayseri above all and to Nevşehir and Niğde, and it is home food first, made for guests and for Ramadan tables, that has moved onto the menus of the city's mantı houses. Outside the region it is barely known, which is one reason to order it where it is made.

The sauce is minced lamb or beef cooked in butter with finely chopped onion, salt, black pepper and red pepper flakes, then tomato paste and grated tomato, loosened with a little water and simmered until it is thick enough to spread but still wet; some cooks add a spoon of pepper paste for colour. The yufka are small, the size of a dinner plate, cooked on a sac until barely coloured and still pliable. On a flat tray one sheet goes down, a thin layer of sauce is spread edge to edge, the next sheet goes on, and so on for five to eight layers, with the top sheet also sauced. A cross is cut through the stack so the wedges separate, thick yoghurt beaten with crushed garlic is spooned over the centre, and butter heated until foaming, often with a pinch of pul biber, is poured on at the last moment so it hisses. Parsley or dried mint may finish it.

Judge the layers by cutting a wedge and looking at the side: the sheets should be distinct but softened, each one stained with sauce, none dry and none dissolved into paste. The meat should taste of butter and onion with the warmth of red pepper, and the tomato should be cooked through, not raw or sour. The yoghurt should be cold and garlicky against the hot stack, and the butter should have been poured in front of you or just before serving, still liquid. Mark down dry upper layers from too little sauce, a soggy base from too much, yufka that has been reheated until leathery, a sauce that is mostly tomato paste, and a version assembled hours ahead and sat in a warming oven, which turns the whole thing into one dense slab. It is rich; a quarter of a stack is a portion, and ayran is the drink.

Kayseri yağlaması

İçli köfte ve yağlama yenir. Diğerleri standart. Çay iyi. 

4 çeşit deneyimledik. Yağlama başarılı kusur yok. İçli köfte güzel haşlama olarak yapılmakta.  Su mantısınin porsiyonu güzel ve fakat mantının iç harcı azdı. Etli gyozanın içi sulu kalmış güzel ama dışının biraz daha çıtır olaması gerekirdi. Gelinir. Çay içmeden kesinlikle gitmeyin. Ankara içtiğim en iyi 10 çayı arasına girer.

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