Name: Caffè Gilli
Address: Via Roma, 1r, Firenze, FI, 50123, IT
Telephone: 055 213896
Price range: €€€
Rating: 4.2

Italy

Florence

Caffè Gilli

A soft, slightly sweet oval bun split lengthways and filled to overflowing with whipped cream: the maritozzo is Rome's breakfast pastry, eaten standing at the bar with a cappuccino and a napkin ready. The dough is enriched with olive oil or butter, eggs and a little honey or sugar, and the older Roman version, the maritozzo quaresimale, carried raisins, pine nuts and candied orange peel and no cream at all; it was one of the few sweets permitted during Lent. The name is a diminutive of marito, husband, from the custom of a suitor giving one to his intended, sometimes with a ring hidden inside. The cream-filled version took over the city's pastry counters in the twentieth century and has spread, in the last decade, to bakeries well beyond Lazio, often in miniature or with flavoured creams.

The bun is a slow dough. Flour, eggs, sugar or honey, fat, a little milk and yeast are kneaded to a smooth, elastic mass, left to rise, shaped into ovals about the size of a fist and proved again until they are puffed and light, then baked at a moderate heat until golden and brushed with a sugar syrup for shine while still hot. The crumb should be fine and soft, closer to brioche than to bread, and the crust thin. Once cooled, each bun is cut almost through along its length, opened like a book and filled with panna montata, cream whipped with a little sugar until it holds firm, then smoothed flat across the opening with a spatula so the top is a clean white plane. In Rome the cream is plain and the only decoration is a dusting of icing sugar.

Score the bun before the cream. It should be fresh that morning, soft enough to compress and spring back, lightly sweet and faintly scented with citrus or honey; a dry, crumbly or bready bun is the usual failure. The cream should be real whipped cream, cold, firm but not grainy, and sweetened with restraint so the bun still registers. The ratio matters: cream roughly equal in volume to the bread, filled right to the edges. Mark down stabilised cream that tastes of nothing, cream applied an hour earlier that has begun to weep into the crumb, a bun that tears when bitten, and chocolate or pistachio versions judged as if they were the classic. It is finished in four or five bites, and the standard is set by the pastry bars of Rome's Trastevere and Prati.

Maritozzo

Ürün süper, fiyatlandırma da absürtlük var. Dışında yumuşacık bir hamur var, içindeki krema biraz peynirli bir tada sahip ama boğmuyor. Normalde bizim açma poaça kültüründen gelen, ankarada herhangi meydandaki poaca arabasında olması beklenen bir ürün. Biraz arşa çıkarmışlar bence. Genel olarak yenir, daha ucuz olmalı.

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