Name: Carciofi alla Giudía Bewertung von Yehanoha bei Otello, Roma, Italien
Item: Carciofi alla Giudía
Rating: 3.1
Author: Yehanoha

Italy

A whole artichoke trimmed down to its tender heart and inner leaves, fried twice in olive oil until the leaves open like a bronze flower and crackle when touched: carciofi alla giudia is the signature dish of Rome's Jewish quarter, served in the trattorias around the Portico d'Ottavia since at least the sixteenth century, when the ghetto was walled in and its cooks made the most of what was cheap. The artichoke is the Roman cimarolo or mammola, a round, purple-tinged variety with no choke, harvested from February to April, which is why the dish is a late-winter and spring food and why a version served in August is a frozen one. It is distinct from carciofi alla romana, which are braised with mint and garlic and arrive soft; alla giudia is about the fat and the crunch, and it is eaten with the fingers.

The outer leaves are stripped and the remaining ones trimmed with a knife in a spiral, the stem peeled and shortened, so that what remains is entirely edible; the artichokes are held in acidulated water until all are ready. They are drained, dried, seasoned inside with salt and pepper, and fried stem-up in deep olive oil at a moderate heat, around 140 to 150°C, for ten to fifteen minutes until tender when a knife is pushed into the base. They are lifted out and pressed gently, stem-up, against a board or a plate so the leaves splay open, then returned to oil that has been brought up to 180°C or more for two or three minutes, sometimes sprinkled with a little water to make the oil spit and crisp the leaves. They drain stem-up on paper, are salted at once and served immediately, one or two to a plate, with nothing but perhaps a lemon.

Judge the leaves first: the outer ones should be crisp enough to shatter and taste of toasted artichoke and olive oil, not of old frying fat, and the whole thing should be golden to bronze, not dark brown. The heart should be fully tender and creamy, seasoned through. Mark down an artichoke that is tough or stringy, which means a poor variety or inadequate trimming; one that is greasy or sodden, which means the oil was too cool; leaves that are burnt at the tips and raw at the base; a frozen artichoke, recognisable by uniform shape and a watery heart; and a plate that has sat long enough for the crunch to go. The dish is seasonal and the season is short. Outside Rome it is rare; inside Rome it is the test of a kitchen in the ghetto, and most of them pass.

Carciofi alla Giudía

Otello

Bu yemeği ya ben anlamadım, ya da ustam biraz beklemiş yağda mı kızarttı naptıysa nerden tutsam anlam veremediğim bir tat oldu. Baska bir yerde baska birinin tavsiyesiyle belki yine yerim ancak bu noktada neresi yeniyor neresi yenmiyor çözemedim. Hoş baya da didikledim ama yok.

Carciofi alla Giudía Bewertung von Yehanoha bei Otello, Roma, Italien

Artischocken nach jüdischer Art

Otello

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