Name: Recensione di Etli ekmek di hurkanakbiyik presso Has Döner Eryaman Şubesi, Etimesgut/Ankara, Turchia
Item: Etli ekmek
Rating: 3.9
Author: hurkanakbiyik

Türkiye

Konya's answer to lahmacun is etli ekmek, meat bread: a strip of thin dough a metre or more long, spread with a mince of lamb, onion and tomato and baked in a stone oven until the edges blister, then cut into hand-width pieces and served with a lemon and a plate of raw onion. It is the everyday lunch of central Anatolia, sold in fırın bakeries where the ovens run from early morning, and it is tied to Konya the way pide is tied to the Black Sea. The differences from lahmacun matter: etli ekmek is oval and very long rather than round, the dough is a little thicker and softer, the meat layer is thinner and spread edge to edge, and the seasoning is milder, with no chilli heat. Variants add cheese (kaşarlı), egg, or a layer of thin pastırma; a version with only cheese and herbs is sold as peynirli.

The dough is flour, water, salt, a little yeast and sometimes a spoon of oil, worked until elastic and rested, then stretched by hand and rolling pin into a long oval of two or three millimetres. The topping is lamb or a lamb-and-beef mix, chopped fine with onion that has been grated and squeezed, fresh tomato, parsley, salt and black pepper; in Konya the meat is fatty and the onion generous, and the mixture is spread so thinly that the dough is visible through it. The bread goes into a taş fırın on a long wooden peel and bakes for three or four minutes at high heat, close to the fire, so the base crisps and the rim rises and chars in places. It is brought to the table on a long board, scissored into pieces, and eaten with lemon squeezed over, a bite of onion and often a glass of ayran.

Judge the dough and the bake first: the base should be crisp underneath, the rim blistered and light, and the middle soft enough to fold a piece in half without snapping. The meat should be juicy and still slightly pink at the centre of the layer, seasoned so lamb and onion lead; dry grey crumbs or a thick, meatloaf-like slab are both wrong. The whole length should be evenly covered, with no bare patches at the ends. Mark down a pale, bready base from a cool oven, a greasy underside, raw onion flavour from unsqueezed onion, and tomato paste standing in for fresh tomato. A hot etli ekmek should still be slightly pliable five minutes after it arrives; one that has gone hard was baked too long or sat too long.

Etli ekmek

Has Döner Eryaman Şubesi

The bread was a bit thicker than I expected. It is very important to have crunchy taste and this one was lacking.

Meat was fine and fat was a bit too much. 

Still a decent a food to try but there are better versions I tasted.

Recensione di Etli ekmek di hurkanakbiyik presso Has Döner Eryaman Şubesi, Etimesgut/Ankara, Turchia

Etli ekmek

Has Döner Eryaman Şubesi

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