Bistecca alla Fiorentina

A T-bone or porterhouse cut at least three fingers thick from a Chianina or other large Tuscan breed, grilled over wood embers for a few minutes a side, stood on its bone to finish, and served rare with salt, pepper and olive oil: the bistecca alla fiorentina is Florence's main course and it comes with rules. The cut must include the fillet and the sirloin on either side of the bone, which is why a bone-in rib or a boneless steak sold under the name is a mislabel. The weight starts at a kilo and usually runs to a kilo and a half, which is a meal for two or three. The name is Florentine and the tradition is tied to the feast of San Lorenzo in August, when the Medici are said to have roasted whole oxen for the city, but the dish as it is now served dates from the nineteenth century and the restaurants around the central market.