Name: Gıyma - Adana Kebapçısı
Address: Emek, Bişkek Cd. No:129, Çankaya, Ankara, 06490, TR
Telephone: (0312) 221 06 01
Price range: €€
Rating: 4.4

Türkiye

Turkey

Ankara

Çankaya

Gıyma - Adana Kebapçısı

Hand-chopped lamb and tail fat, seasoned with little more than salt and red pepper, pressed along a long flat skewer, grilled over charcoal and served on flatbread with grilled peppers, tomato, onion with sumac and parsley: Adana kebap carries the name of its city for a reason. It comes from Adana in southern Türkiye, where the name has been a registered geographical indication since 2005, with rules on the meat (lamb from animals under a year old, shoulder, leg and brisket), the fat (tail fat, about one part to four or five of meat) and the knife (a zırh, the wide curved blade, not a mincer). Its relatives are easy to confuse: Urfa kebap is the same construction without the heat, and a beyti is a kebab rolled in lavash with yoghurt and tomato sauce. A true Adana is spicy, coarse-textured and tastes first of lamb and charcoal.

The meat is chopped by hand until it is a rough paste with visible pieces of fat, then kneaded with salt and flakes of dried red pepper from the region, sometimes a spoon of red pepper paste for colour; onion and garlic are not in the registered recipe. The mixture rests cold so the fat firms up, then is pressed by hand along a flat skewer two or three fingers wide, pinched into ridges so it grips, and laid directly over a bed of oak or fruitwood charcoal with no grate between. The cook turns it often and presses the bread onto the meat as it grills to catch the dripping fat. Four to six minutes is enough. Ground meat from a machine will not stay on the skewer unless egg or bread is added, which is why minced versions taste of filler.

Score the texture first: the cut face should show distinct bits of meat and fat, not a smooth sausage grain, and the skewer should hold together without binders. The outside wants to be lightly charred at the ridges, the inside juicy and faintly pink. Dryness means too little fat or an overcooked skewer; a grey, bouncy interior means minced meat. The heat should build on the second bite, not scorch on the first. Expect fat-soaked lavash underneath, long grilled green peppers, a tomato half and sliced onion with sumac; a glass of şalgam or ayran is the usual drink. Mark down a kebab served on a plate without bread, beef passed off as lamb, and any Adana that arrives mild, which is an Urfa with the wrong name.

Adana kebap

Lahmacun takes two or three minutes in a very hot oven: a round of dough rolled thinner than a cracker, a little wider than a dinner plate, spread with a paste of minced lamb or beef, onion, tomato, red pepper and parsley. The name comes from the Arabic lahm bi ajin, meat with dough, which is a fair description of the whole dish. It is eaten across south-eastern Türkiye, Syria and Lebanon, and Armenians make a close relative they call lahmajo. In Türkiye the home ground is Gaziantep, Şanlıurfa and Adana, where it is a lunchtime order rather than a snack, and a single person will put away two or three. Calling it Turkish pizza misleads on the main point: there is no cheese, the topping is scraped on thinly rather than piled, and the base is closer to a cracker than a bread.

The dough is a plain flour, water, salt and a little yeast mixture, rested, then rolled or stretched to about two millimetres so it bakes through before the meat dries out. The topping is where the work is. Fatty meat is chopped fine with onion, tomato, biber salçası (red pepper paste), parsley and, depending on the town, garlic or pul biber; in Antep many ustas insist on a zırh, the curved knife, rather than a mincer, because grinding squeezes out the juice that should stay in the meat. The paste goes on with the back of a spoon or the fingertips until the dough shows through in places. The oven is the deciding factor: a stone-floored taş fırın running well above 400°C blisters the edge and sets the meat in the time it takes to slide the next one in. In a domestic oven the base steams and the meat cooks grey.

Judge a lahmacun on its base first. It should be crisp enough at the rim to snap and pliable enough in the middle to roll around a handful of parsley, sliced onion with sumac and a squeeze of lemon, which is how it is eaten: rolled, not cut. Look for charred freckles underneath and a topping that has caramelised at the edges but is still moist in the centre. A thick, bready base, a topping layered like a meat pie, or a sauce-like red paste that tastes mostly of tomato are all signs of a kitchen imitating pizza. Cold lahmacun reheated on a flat grill is acceptable in a kebapçı at four in the afternoon; one that has gone leathery is not. The acılı (spicy) version from Şanlıurfa carries real heat, so check which you ordered before marking it down.

Lahmacun

Kuzu Izgara, or Grilled Lamb, represents the pinnacle of Turkish meat cuisine. This dish highlights the natural flavors of high-quality lamb, seasoned simply with salt, pepper, thyme, and sometimes marinated in olive oil and onion juice to tenderize the meat. Cooked over charcoal embers, the lamb acquires a distinct smoky aroma while remaining juicy and tender on the inside. Different cuts can be used, such as chops (pirzola), ribs (kaburga), or skewers (şiş). It is traditionally served with grilled peppers, tomatoes, bulgur pilaf, and lavash bread. The emphasis is on the quality of the meat and the skill of the grill master.

Grilled Lamb

Kuzu Izgara

Çok bir esprisini göremediğim bu yağlı karadaki temel problem sertlik ve tuz eksikliği idi. Bazı et parçalarında sinirler de mevcuttu. Genel olarak güzel bir tat vardı fakat beni tam olarak cezbetmedi. Bir dahaki sefer sipariş vereceğimi düşünmüyorum. 1000 liraya değmez.

Meşhur gıyma kebabı deneme fırsatını sonunda yakaladım ve çok memnun kaldım. Adanalarda var olan kuruluk probleminden eser yoktu. İçindeki malzeme oranı gayet güzeldi ve etin tadı da süperdi.

Porsiyon olarak küçük bulsam da keyifli bir yemekti. Her gittiğimde deneyeceğim bir tat olmuş.

Gayet güzel dağılmış bir malzeme, kaliteli et ve çıtır çıtır bir hamur. Hamur biraz daha ince olabilirdi.

Bir porsiyonda iki adet mevcut. Altlık olarak sipariş verip keyifle yiyebilirsiniz.

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