Name: Lokanta Evden Uzakta
Address: Karperweg 1, 1075 LA Amsterdam, Netherlands, Amsterdam, Netherlands
Telephone: 020 221 0018
Price range: $$
Rating: 4.1

Netherlands

Lokanta Evden Uzakta

Kokoreç is one of the most iconic and beloved street foods in Turkey, a delicacy that is as famous for its unique preparation as it is for its bold, savory flavor. It consists of lamb or goat intestines wrapped tightly around seasoned offal—typically sweetbreads, hearts, kidneys, or lungs—to form a dense, horizontal spit. This spit is then slow-roasted over a charcoal fire, allowing the fat to render and baste the meat as it spins, creating a crispy, well-seasoned outer layer while keeping the inside tender and juicy. The aroma of roasting kokoreç is unmistakable and serves as a beacon for hungry passersby in cities like Istanbul and Izmir.

Historically, the consumption of offal has deep roots in Anatolian and Balkan cuisines, dating back to nomadic traditions where nose-to-tail eating was a necessity. Kokoreç as it is known today became particularly popularized in urban centers in the 20th century. There are regional variations in how it is served; the 'Istanbul style' typically involves chopping the roasted meat finely on a grill with tomatoes and green peppers before stuffing it into a toasted bread roll (yarım ekmek). In contrast, the 'Izmir style' is simpler, serving the sliced meat with just a sprinkling of cumin and oregano, allowing the pure flavor of the meat to shine.

Culturally, kokoreç is the quintessential late-night food, often consumed after a night out drinking or attending a concert. It occupies a special place in Turkish culinary culture, bridging the gap between humble ingredients and gourmet enjoyment. Despite occasional debates regarding EU regulations on offal, kokoreç remains a stubborn and proud symbol of local taste.

For the uninitiated, the texture can be surprising but delightful—a mix of crispy, chewy, and soft. It is heavily seasoned with salt, oregano, cumin, and red pepper flakes (pul biber), which cut through the richness of the fat. The perfect beverage pairing is undoubtedly a cold glass of salty yogurt drink called 'ayran', or 'şalgam' (fermented spicy turnip juice), which balances the grease and spice. Eating kokoreç is not just a meal; it is a rite of passage for anyone visiting Turkey who wants to experience the true soul of its street food scene.

Kokoreç

Türkiye

Meyhane Döneri is a refined Turkish interpretation of the classic döner kebab, inspired by the convivial spirit and culinary sophistication of traditional Turkish meyhanes — taverns known for their rich meze spreads, rakı culture, and leisurely dining. Unlike typical street-style döner served in sandwiches or wraps, Meyhane Döneri is a plated dish that emphasizes flavor balance, presentation, and high-quality ingredients. It often features thinly sliced marinated beef or lamb cooked on a vertical rotisserie until tender and slightly crispy at the edges. The meat is then served over buttery flatbread or roasted eggplant purée, accompanied by yogurt sauce, grilled vegetables, and sometimes a drizzle of melted butter infused with paprika or sumac oil. 

Originating from Turkey’s Aegean and Marmara regions, Meyhane Döneri bridges the casual appeal of döner with the sophistication of fine dining. It’s a dish meant to be savored slowly, often enjoyed alongside meze such as haydari, ezme, or hummus, and paired with a glass of rakı or wine. The focus is on the harmony of textures — juicy meat, creamy yogurt, soft bread — and the contrast between smoky, tangy, and buttery notes. In modern Turkish restaurants, Meyhane Döneri represents the evolution of the döner concept from street food to restaurant cuisine. It reflects the Turkish dining philosophy of sharing, hospitality, and celebrating everyday meals with artistry. Its growing popularity has led to reinterpretations across Europe and the Middle East, where chefs combine local influences with the dish’s authentic Turkish roots, making Meyhane Döneri a symbol of contemporary Anatolian gastronomy.

Meyhane Döneri

Acılı Ezme is a vibrant, spicy vegetable salad and dip that is ubiquitous in Turkish kebab houses and grilled meat restaurants (ocakbaşı). The name roughly translates to 'spicy mashed' dish, referring to the traditional method of preparation where vegetables are finely chopped or mashed together to create a cohesive, salsa-like texture. It acts as an appetizing starter, designed to wake up the palate before the arrival of rich, fatty meats.

The core ingredients of Acılı Ezme are ripe tomatoes, green peppers (often spicy), onions, garlic, and parsley. However, the secret to its depth lies in the dressing and seasonings. A mixture of pepper paste (biber salçası), pomegranate molasses (nar ekşisi), olive oil, varying amounts of hot red pepper flakes (pul biber or isot), sumac, and dried mint is massaged into the vegetables. Some variations might include walnuts for crunch or a splash of lemon juice for extra brightness.

Preparation requires patience and skill with a knife; using a food processor is often frowned upon as it can turn the vegetables into a watery mush. Hand-chopping ensures that each vegetable retains its identity while contributing to the collective flavor profile. The result is a dish that hits every flavor note: sweet from the tomatoes and onions, sour from the pomegranate molasses, savory from the salça, and unmistakably spicy.

Served cold, Acılı Ezme is typically eaten with warm, puffy lavash bread or pita. It is not just a condiment but a standalone meze that showcases the freshness of Turkish produce and the mastery of spice balancing.

Acılı ezme

First time trying this version of so called ‘iskender’. Even though it can not beat the iskender it was a nice dish.

Same idea… Crunchy bread at the bottom, yougurt, tomato sauce and butter to smooth the bread. Main difference is the meat because it is not from a tolling doner it was thin sliced tenderloin.

Pretty nice idea and execution.

As you know I love kokorec. It is the first time I try it with in a börek. And to be honest, I liked it.

It was served as any kokorec, hot and spicy. Even though it is expensive, just give it a try you would love it.

My usual take when I am at any meyhane. Unfortunately even the taste was fine it was missing the whole idea of ezme. It felt like it was a tomato sauce. I should able to see each piece and ingredient as it shouldn’t look like a paste. Ny advice to chef is show the ingredients so I can feel it.

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