Name: TAVERN MORE
Address: Obala kardinala Alojzija Stepinca 28, 21222, Marina, HR
Telephone: 098 932 6162
Rating: 3.9

Croatia

Općina Marina

TAVERN MORE

A hot cold salad is a dish that combines both warm and chilled ingredients, offering a contrast in temperature and texture. Typically, it might feature grilled meats, roasted vegetables, or sautéed seafood served over a bed of fresh greens, crisp lettuce, or chilled grains. Popular dressings include vinaigrettes or yogurt-based sauces. This type of salad is common in contemporary Western cuisine and is favored for its balance of flavors and satisfying, hearty yet refreshing profile.

Hot Cold Salad

Komiška pogača is the savoury pie of Komiža, the fishing town on the western side of the Croatian island of Vis: a double layer of bread dough filled with slowly cooked onion, salted anchovies or sardines and tomato, baked in a round tray and cut into squares. It is the island's working food, taken on boats and into vineyards, and it exists in two closely guarded versions. The Komiža one has tomato in the filling and is cut square; the viška pogača of Vis town on the eastern side has no tomato, only onion and salted fish, and is cut in triangles, and the two towns treat the difference as a matter of identity. Bakeries in both sell it by the piece through the morning, and it is one of the few Dalmatian dishes that is bread, fish and vegetable in a single bite without cheese anywhere near it.

The dough is a plain bread dough of flour, water, yeast, salt and olive oil, left to rise and then divided in two and rolled thin. The filling takes longer than the dough: a large quantity of onion, roughly as much by weight as the flour, is sliced and cooked in olive oil over low heat for the better part of an hour until it is soft, sweet and reduced to a third of its volume, with no browning. Salted anchovies or sardines, rinsed and boned, are chopped and stirred in with parsley and a little pepper; in Komiža, peeled tomato or a spoon of tomato paste goes in as well and is cooked down so the filling is moist but not wet. The bottom sheet of dough lines an oiled round tray, the cooled filling is spread evenly, the top sheet is laid over and sealed at the edge, pricked, and brushed with oil; it bakes at around 200°C for thirty to forty minutes until the crust is deep gold. It is cut when lukewarm.

A good square has a thin, firm, slightly crisp crust on both faces, a filling layer at least as thick as the two crusts together, and a clear taste of sweet onion with the salted fish behind it, not in front; in the Komiža version the tomato should be a background note that keeps the filling moist and tints it, not a sauce. Mark down a thick, bready pogača that is mostly dough, a filling where the onion is undercooked and sharp or burnt and bitter, fish that is overpowering, which usually means it was not rinsed, a soggy base from a wet filling, and any version with cheese or with fresh fish, which is a different pie. It is eaten at room temperature and travels well; one that is still good at the end of a day on a boat was made properly.

Komiška pogača

A French bistro steak, the steak au poivre is crusted in coarsely crushed black peppercorns, pan-fried in butter, and served with a sauce made in the same pan from the pepper-flavoured fat, cognac flamed off, stock and cream. It is a twentieth-century dish of Paris and Normandy restaurants, and several chefs of the 1920s and 1930s claimed it; the most repeated attribution is to Émile Lerch at the Restaurant Albert in Paris in 1930, though recipes using a pepper crust appear before that and the claim cannot be settled. The cut is a filet or a thick faux-filet, and the dish belongs with steak-frites and entrecôte béarnaise in the trio of classic bistro steaks; it is the one where the sauce is made to order in front of the guest in older rooms, with the flame of the cognac as part of the show. It is served with frites or potato purée and nothing else of consequence.

The pepper is whole black peppercorns, crushed coarsely under a pan or in a mortar to pieces rather than powder, so that the crust has crunch and the heat is released slowly; some kitchens mix in white or green peppercorns and some use green alone for a milder, more aromatic result. The steak, two to three centimetres thick, is dried, salted, and pressed firmly into the crushed pepper on both sides so it adheres. It goes into a very hot pan with butter and a little oil for three to four minutes a side for rare to medium-rare, then rests on a warm plate while the sauce is made: the pan is deglazed with a good measure of cognac, which is flamed or boiled hard to burn off the alcohol, then a ladle of beef or veal stock is added and reduced by half, then cream, simmered until it coats a spoon, and finished with a knob of butter and the resting juices. The sauce is poured over or beside the steak.

Judge the pepper first: the crust should be visible and coarse, adhering to the meat, hot on the palate but not raw or bitter, which happens when it is burnt in the pan or ground too fine. The steak should be cooked as ordered with a proper seared surface under the pepper, and rested so the plate stays clean. The sauce should be the colour of café au lait, thick enough to cling but still pourable, tasting of pepper, cognac and reduced stock with the cream as a binder rather than the main flavour; there should be no raw alcohol and no flour. Mark down a thin or greasy sauce, a sauce that is only cream, a pepper crust that has fallen off into the pan, pepper so fine the steak eats like a seasoned fillet, an overcooked steak hidden under sauce, and a version using ground pepper from a jar, which gives dust rather than crust. Frites should be fried to order and judged separately; a steak au poivre on a bed of mashed potato soaking up the sauce is a legitimate variant.

Steak au poivre

Tasty steak! But the bbq sauce next to is a shame. It is a basic bbq sauce you get from McDonalds with fries. The plate could have something else to complete the look and taste. The butter was ok. I ordered some grilled vegetables and they were good!

Really simple bur tasty bread to tey it with your cold plates.

They serve it hot so you could have the all taste 👌

Pretty cheap! I would it eat everyday.

First time trying this and i loved it.

A warm salad is something new to me. I really like it. Shrimps cooked well and seasoned really nice. Fresh veggies and tasteful tomatoes made this mix perfect.

Also as an extra sauce there was pomegranate sauce.

TAVERN MORE

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