Name: İskender kebap Bewertung von ekinakbiyik bei Has Döner İvedik Şubesi, Yenimahalle/Ankara, Türkei
Item: İskender kebap
Rating: 4.2
Author: ekinakbiyik

Bursa serves its döner as a plated dish rather than a sandwich and calls it İskender kebap: thin slices of lamb laid over cubes of pide bread, covered in a tomato sauce, finished at the table with browned sheep's-milk butter poured from a pan, and served with thick yoghurt on the side. The dish takes its name from İskender Efendi, a Bursa butcher credited in the late nineteenth century with turning the horizontal grilling spit upright, which is the origin of döner as it is now known. His descendants still run restaurants in the city and hold a registered trademark on the name, which is why many menus elsewhere call it Bursa kebabı. The four parts are fixed: bread, meat, sauce, butter. Anything else on the plate is a local addition.

The meat is the hardest part to get right. Bursa-style döner is built from whole slices of lamb leg and shoulder, marinated in onion juice, milk and little else, stacked with layers of tail fat and cooked slowly in front of a vertical grill until the outside is crisp and the inside stays pink. It is shaved thin as it browns, in strips rather than crumbs. The pide is a flat, pale, unleavened-looking bread cut into fingers and warmed in the pan juices or with a spoon of butter so it softens without going soggy. The tomato sauce is light, made from fresh or grated tomatoes cooked briefly with a little butter and salt, not a thick paste. The butter is the signature: sadeyağ, clarified sheep's or cow's butter, heated until it foams and smells nutty, then poured over the plate in front of the diner so it hisses on the meat.

Score the meat first. Look for slices with a browned edge and a tender, juicy centre; dry grey shreds mean the spit was cut too deep or held too long. The bread should be soft from the butter and sauce but keep some bite underneath; a plate where everything has collapsed into mush was assembled too early. The butter should arrive hot and separately, because butter that was poured in the kitchen soaks in and vanishes. The yoghurt should be thick enough to hold a spoon and cold enough to cut the fat. Common shortcuts are processed döner made from minced meat pressed into a cone, ketchup-thick tomato sauce, and margarine in place of butter. Grilled green peppers and tomato on the side are standard in Bursa; chips are not.

İskender kebap

Türkiye

Has Döner İvedik Şubesi

Yemek fotoğraftaki kadar lezzetli, yağlı güzel. Biber biraz yanmıştı. Bazı etler çatala pıt diye girmedi galiba çok pişmiş ama lezzeti falan gayet iyi beğendim yine gidilebilir

İskender kebap Bewertung von ekinakbiyik bei Has Döner İvedik Şubesi, Yenimahalle/Ankara, Türkei

İskender Kebap

Has Döner İvedik Şubesi

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