Name: Dayı Kürek Lahmacun (Eryaman)
Address: Eryaman, Dil Devrimi Cd. No: 47 A D:B, Etimesgut, Ankara, 06284, TR
Telephone: (0312) 283 07 00
Price range: €€
Rating: 3.8

Türkiye

Turkey

Ankara

Etimesgut

Dayı Kürek Lahmacun (Eryaman)

Lahmacun takes two or three minutes in a very hot oven: a round of dough rolled thinner than a cracker, a little wider than a dinner plate, spread with a paste of minced lamb or beef, onion, tomato, red pepper and parsley. The name comes from the Arabic lahm bi ajin, meat with dough, which is a fair description of the whole dish. It is eaten across south-eastern Türkiye, Syria and Lebanon, and Armenians make a close relative they call lahmajo. In Türkiye the home ground is Gaziantep, Şanlıurfa and Adana, where it is a lunchtime order rather than a snack, and a single person will put away two or three. Calling it Turkish pizza misleads on the main point: there is no cheese, the topping is scraped on thinly rather than piled, and the base is closer to a cracker than a bread.

The dough is a plain flour, water, salt and a little yeast mixture, rested, then rolled or stretched to about two millimetres so it bakes through before the meat dries out. The topping is where the work is. Fatty meat is chopped fine with onion, tomato, biber salçası (red pepper paste), parsley and, depending on the town, garlic or pul biber; in Antep many ustas insist on a zırh, the curved knife, rather than a mincer, because grinding squeezes out the juice that should stay in the meat. The paste goes on with the back of a spoon or the fingertips until the dough shows through in places. The oven is the deciding factor: a stone-floored taş fırın running well above 400°C blisters the edge and sets the meat in the time it takes to slide the next one in. In a domestic oven the base steams and the meat cooks grey.

Judge a lahmacun on its base first. It should be crisp enough at the rim to snap and pliable enough in the middle to roll around a handful of parsley, sliced onion with sumac and a squeeze of lemon, which is how it is eaten: rolled, not cut. Look for charred freckles underneath and a topping that has caramelised at the edges but is still moist in the centre. A thick, bready base, a topping layered like a meat pie, or a sauce-like red paste that tastes mostly of tomato are all signs of a kitchen imitating pizza. Cold lahmacun reheated on a flat grill is acceptable in a kebapçı at four in the afternoon; one that has gone leathery is not. The acılı (spicy) version from Şanlıurfa carries real heat, so check which you ordered before marking it down.

Lahmacun

Lahmacunun hamuru, salçası güzeldi. Kıyma, soğan ve acı biraz azdı. Yanında gelen yeşillikler masaya serilerek servis edilmişti. İçinde soğan yoktu. Maydonoz, marul, sivri biber, çeri domates ve limonla servis edilmişti. İçinde soğan yoktu. Ek olarak soğan istediğimizde ayrı olarak verebileceklerini söylediler.

Tuz ve karabiberi sonradan ekledik bizce azdı.

Dayı Kürek Lahmacun (Eryaman)

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