Name: Reseña de Hot jam donuts por ekinakbiyik en Kook's Donuts, Etimesgut/Ankara, Turquía
Item: Hot jam donuts
Rating: 4.2
Author: ekinakbiyik

Australia

Hot jam donuts are Melbourne's doughnut: a yeasted ball fried to order, injected with raspberry or strawberry jam while still too hot to hold, rolled in sugar and handed over in a paper bag that goes translucent with oil within a minute. The reference point is the American Doughnut Kitchen, the white van that has parked outside the Queen Victoria Market since 1950 and still sells half a dozen at a time through a hatch, and the form has spread to vans at football grounds, country shows and markets across Victoria. The dish is the same cinnamon-sugar jam doughnut found in Germany as a Berliner and in Poland as a pączek, brought by post-war European migrants, but the Melbourne habit of eating it within seconds of frying, standing up, and burning the roof of the mouth on the jam is what makes it a local institution rather than a bakery item.

The dough is a soft, enriched yeast dough of flour, milk, egg, butter and a little sugar, mixed, proofed, divided into balls of about sixty grams, and proofed again until light. The balls are dropped into oil at around 175°C and fried for about two minutes a side until deep golden, turned once; a properly proofed doughnut floats and shows a pale band around its middle where it sat at the surface. Straight from the fryer they are drained for seconds, rolled in cinnamon sugar while the surface is still wet with oil so the sugar sticks, and then jam, warmed so it flows, is pumped in through a nozzle from the side or top, enough that it bulges and sometimes leaks at the hole. The whole cycle from fryer to bag is under a minute, which is the point: the van fries continuously and does not hold stock.

Bite it immediately and judge the jam first: it should be hot enough to be dangerous, present in the centre of every bite rather than a pocket at one end, and taste of fruit as well as sugar. The dough should be light, airy and stretchy with a thin, slightly crisp surface and no greasy heaviness, and the sugar coating should be even and thin with a clear note of cinnamon. Mark down a cold or merely warm doughnut, which means it was fried earlier and held, a dense or bready crumb from under-proofing, a doughnut that drips oil from a fryer running too cool, a stingy or cold jam injection, and a doughnut without the pale centre band, which was fried in oil too deep to float and will be heavy. Five in a bag is the unit of judgement; one is a sample.

Hot jam donuts

Türkiye

Kook's Donuts

İçi dopdoluydu. Aromasını sevdim. Tek eksiği biraz şekerli geldi diye yerken yanında bir şeyler içme ihtiyacı durdum. Çok çeşitli donutlar var. Daha önce başka yerlerde de yemiş birisi olarak burdakini baya başarılı buldum. Yine geleceğim.

Reseña de Hot jam donuts por ekinakbiyik en Kook's Donuts, Etimesgut/Ankara, Turquía

Hot jam donuts

Kook's Donuts

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