Amatriciana

Amatrice sits in the mountains of Rieti province, and the sauce named after the town is guanciale, tomato, pecorino and chilli. The municipal recipe, given a local designation in 2015, is explicit about the omissions: no onion, no garlic. Amatriciana is the middle term in Rome's sequence of four sauces. Cacio e pepe plus guanciale gives gricia; gricia plus tomato gives amatriciana; gricia plus egg gives carbonara instead. The tomato arrived last, some time in the late eighteenth century, which makes this the youngest of the four despite being the one most people assume is oldest. Rome serves it on bucatini, Amatrice on spaghetti, and both sides consider the other slightly wrong.