Name: Crème brûlée recensie door hurkanakbiyik bij Nazende “The Baked Goods”, Çankaya/Ankara, Turkije
Item: Crème brûlée
Rating: 4
Author: hurkanakbiyik

A baked custard of cream, egg yolks, sugar and vanilla, chilled and then capped with a layer of sugar that is melted under a flame into a glass-thin sheet of caramel: crème brûlée is the dessert whose whole point is the sound of a spoon cracking through the top. The French name dates from a 1691 cookbook by François Massialot, but the dish was being made in Cambridge in the same period as burnt cream, a tradition Trinity College still claims, and the Catalan crema catalana, thickened with cornflour and flavoured with lemon and cinnamon, is older than both. The modern restaurant version is a product of the 1980s, when the blowtorch and the shallow ramekin made the caramel lid reliable and the dessert spread to menus everywhere. The custard underneath is what separates a good one from a bad one; the caramel only decides whether it was finished properly.

The custard is cream, sometimes cut with a little milk, heated with a split vanilla pod and steeped, then whisked into egg yolks beaten with sugar at roughly one yolk per hundred millilitres of cream; the mix is strained, skimmed of foam and poured into wide, shallow dishes. These bake in a water bath at a low oven, 120 to 150°C, for thirty to forty minutes until the custard is set at the edges and still trembling in the centre, then cool and chill for several hours. Just before serving, a thin, even layer of caster or demerara sugar is spread over the surface and caramelised with a blowtorch or under a very hot grill until it bubbles and darkens to amber. It sets within a minute and the dessert is served immediately, while the caramel is hot and brittle and the custard underneath still cold.

Tap the top first: it should crack like ice and shatter into shards, be thin enough to break easily and dark enough to taste bitter against the custard, not pale and sticky and not black. The custard should be smooth, cold, just set, and taste of cream and vanilla with visible seeds, neither sweet enough to compete with the caramel nor eggy. Mark down a rubbery or grainy custard, which was baked too hot; a thin, runny one, which was underbaked; a caramel that has gone soft from sitting, which means it was torched in advance; a thick sugar crust that needs force to break; and a custard that is warm from the flame because the dish was too shallow or the torch too slow. Flavoured versions, lavender, coffee, chocolate, are judged on the same points. A good one is finished in six or seven spoonfuls and leaves the dish clean.

Crème brûlée

Türkiye

Nazende “The Baked Goods”

Döner sonrası geldiğimiz bu mekanda Klasiklerden olan bir creme brulee yemek istedim görünüş olarak ne kadar beni cezbetmiş olsa da tat olarak aynı şeyi söyleyemeyeceğim.

Portakal aroması çok fazlaydı. Krem bölümü normalden katıydı daha ipeksi bir kıvam olabilirdi. Şeker kısmında bir sorun yoktu. Ama ilk defa bir tabağımı bitirmeden kalktım.

Crème brûlée recensie door hurkanakbiyik bij Nazende “The Baked Goods”, Çankaya/Ankara, Turkije

Crème brûlée

Nazende “The Baked Goods”

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