Name: Poules Moules
Address: Simon Stevinplein 9, Brugge, 8000, BE
Telephone: 050 34 61 19
Price range: €€
Rating: 2.3

Belgium

Bruges

Poules Moules

Mussels in cream are a pot of live mussels steamed open in white wine with shallot and garlic, the cooking liquor then enriched with cream and parsley and poured back over the shells. The dish belongs to the whole Atlantic seaboard: in France it is moules à la crème and a Normandy standard alongside moules marinière, in Belgium it is one of the dozen preparations a mussel house lists, and in Ireland, where rope-grown mussels from Bantry Bay, Killary Harbour and the Donegal coast supply most of Europe, it is the usual way a pub or seafood bar serves a kilo bowl with brown bread or chips. The cream version is a step up from marinière in richness and a step down in purity, and it exists because the liquor the mussels release is so good that a spoon of cream turns it into a sauce without any other work.

The mussels are scrubbed and debearded, and any that stay open when tapped or feel heavy with sand are thrown out. Shallot and garlic are softened in butter in a wide pot, a glass of dry white wine goes in and boils for a minute, then the mussels in a single batch, lid on, over high heat for three to five minutes with one shake of the pot, until the shells open. The mussels come out, the liquor is strained if gritty and reduced briefly, and double cream is added at roughly a quarter of the volume of liquor, brought back to a simmer, seasoned with pepper and finished with chopped parsley; salt is almost never needed because the mussels bring their own. Some kitchens thicken with a roux or a spoon of flour, which produces a heavier, chowder-like sauce. The mussels go back in to coat and the whole thing is served at once in a deep bowl.

Count the closed shells first: a few unopened mussels are normal and should be left, but more than a handful means the pot was crowded or the mussels were tired. The flesh should be plump, orange or cream coloured, and tender, not shrunken and rubbery, which is the sign of overcooking; the sauce should be thin enough to drink from the shell and spoon with bread, cream-coloured rather than white, and taste of mussel liquor and wine first with the cream behind. Mark down a sauce so thick it clings like a soup, a floury or gluey texture, a grainy or sandy mouthful, any mussel that smells of anything but the sea, and a bowl where the mussels are small and the shells are mostly empty. The bread or chips are there to deal with the sauce, and a good bowl leaves none behind.

Mussels in Cream

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