A quintessential American food, burger evolved from the German Deutsches beefsteak, according to the New York Times food critic Mimi Sheraton. Its other name (hamburger) is a result of the fact that many German immigrants originally came from the port of Hamburg. Burger is a succulent dish consisting of, ideally, medium-rare seared beef patties tucked in fresh, lightly toasted buns, accompanied by onion slices and ketchup or Dijon mustard. Of course, there is a variety of other condiments and vegetables such as salad greens and tomatoes, but they tend to turn the meat cold, according to Mrs. Sheraton. If cheese is added, it should be mozzarella, Gruyere or Cheddar, slightly melting and mildly pungent. It is yet unclear who first thought to encase the beef patties with buns. Giovanni Ballarini, a food historian, says that the immigrants were given grilled meat between sliced of bread, so there would be no plates involved, and no water was wasted for washing the dishes. Hannah Glasse first mentioned a Hamburg "sausage" in her 1747 cookbook The Art of Cookery, Made Plain and Easy, defining it as a chopped mixture of beef and spices that should be served with toast. Or maybe it was Charlie Nagreen, a meatball seller from Wisconsin, who, in 1885, decided to put meatballs between bread so the consumers could eat them while walking at a country fair where he worked. Today, toppings and accompaniments vary from region to region, but for an original version one should visit Louis' Lunch in New Haven, Connecticut, serving the burgers since 1900, and claiming to be the oldest burger joint in the United States. Whatever the theories about the origin of burgers may be, and there are a lot of them, it is a convenient, simple and hearty meal that most meat lovers will gladly indulge in.

Mathys Pomier

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