Name: Avis sur Ekmek kadayıfı par ekinakbiyik chez Aftat, Afyonkarahisar Merkez/Afyonkarahisar, Turquie
Item: Ekmek kadayıfı
Rating: 2.5
Author: ekinakbiyik

Ekmek kadayıfı is a Turkish syrup dessert built on a dried bread round rather than on pastry: a yeasted dough baked into a flat, porous disc, dried hard, then cooked in sugar syrup until it swells into a dark amber sponge, and served cold under a thick slab of kaymak. The disc is a product in its own right, sold by bakers and in packets with a dimpled top, and it bears no relation to the shredded tel kadayıf used for künefe; the two share only the name, which in Ottoman usage covered several syrup-soaked sweets. Afyonkarahisar is the city most often credited with the dish, helped by its reputation for the kaymak that goes on top, and restaurants there serve it as the standard finish to a meal of sucuk and meat dishes. It is also one of the sweets associated with Şeker Bayramı, the holiday that ends Ramadan, when a tray is made for guests.

The dried round goes into a wide, shallow tray that just fits it, and boiling syrup is poured over; the ratio is high, around two parts sugar to three parts water with a squeeze of lemon, and more syrup than seems reasonable. Cooks then do the slow part: the tray sits over low heat for forty minutes to an hour while syrup is spooned over the top, the disc is turned once it has softened, and the liquid is reduced until the bread has absorbed almost all of it and taken on a glossy, caramel-coloured surface. Some bakers brown the top under heat at the end so the sugar on the surface sets. The tray is cooled, then chilled, and kaymak is spread over the whole surface or laid on each portion at service, with crushed pistachios or walnuts on top. Nothing else goes in: no vanilla, no spice.

A good portion cuts cleanly with a spoon and holds its shape, soaked through to the centre with no dry white core and no pool of loose syrup around it. The colour should be deep amber and even, the texture closer to a dense bread pudding than to a cake, and the sweetness heavy, which is what the kaymak is there to answer; the cream should be thick enough to stand in a slab, mildly tangy, and clearly dairy. Mark down a disc that is pale and dry inside, one that has collapsed into mush, syrup that tastes scorched, and above all whipped cream or a flavoured dessert cream in place of kaymak, which is the most common shortcut outside Turkey. Served warm it is a different and lesser experience; the chill is part of the design.

Ekmek kadayıfı

Türkiye

Aftat

Vişneli olanından aldım diye mi bilmiyorum ama beğenmedim. Çok şekerli bir tatlı, üstündeki kaymakla daha da ağır bir tatlıya dönüştü. Çay olmasına rağmen yemedim. Rengi gibi tadı da güzel olsaydı keşke. 

Avis sur Ekmek kadayıfı par ekinakbiyik chez Aftat, Afyonkarahisar Merkez/Afyonkarahisar, Turquie

Ekmek kadayıfı

Aftat

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