Name: Recensione di Kalamar tava di Yehanoha presso Ramen City Ankara, Çankaya/Ankara, Turchia
Item: Kalamar tava
Rating: 4.2
Author: Yehanoha

Rings of squid dredged in flour or dipped in a light batter, fried for a minute or two in hot oil and served with lemon and a bowl of tarator, the Turkish sauce of walnuts, garlic, bread and vinegar: kalamar tava is the fried squid of the Aegean and Marmara meyhane, ordered as a hot meze between the cold plates and the fish. It is on every seaside menu from Çanakkale to Bodrum and in every Istanbul fish restaurant along the Bosphorus, and it is the dish by which regulars judge whether a kitchen can fry at all. The squid is the local kalamar, caught in the Marmara and the Aegean in autumn and winter, and the frying is quick and unadorned; the Greek kalamarakia and the Italian calamari fritti are the same idea with different sauces. Tarator is what makes it Turkish.

Fresh squid is cleaned, the body cut into rings a centimetre wide and the tentacles left whole, then dried thoroughly, because water in the pan is what turns a crisp coating into a steamed one. Many meyhane soak the rings for an hour in milk or in sparkling water with a pinch of bicarbonate of soda to tenderise them. The coating is either a plain dredge in seasoned flour, sometimes cut with cornflour or semolina for crunch, or a thin batter of flour and cold beer or soda water. The oil is sunflower, deep and hot, around 180°C, and the rings go in a handful at a time for ninety seconds to two minutes, until pale gold; squid toughens past that point and turns rubbery. They are drained on paper, salted at once and sent out immediately with lemon wedges, and the tarator comes alongside, made with walnuts pounded with garlic, stale bread soaked and squeezed, vinegar or lemon and olive oil.

Judge the squid first: it should be tender enough to bite through cleanly, with a faint sweetness, and the rings should still have a little bounce. Rubbery rings mean old squid or too long in the oil; a soft, mealy texture means frozen squid that has been thawed badly. The coating should be thin, crisp and clinging, not a thick batter jacket with a gap of steam under it, and there should be no pool of oil on the plate. Mark down pale, greasy rings from oil that was too cool, a crust that slides off in a sheet, rings cut so thick they stay chewy, and a plate that has waited under a heat lamp. Tarator should be thick, garlicky and tasting of walnut, not a mayonnaise-like garlic dip, and the lemon should be fresh. Frozen pre-breaded rings from a bag are a different and lesser product, usually betrayed by perfectly uniform size.

Kalamar tava

Türkiye

Ramen City Ankara

Kalamar genel olarak çok iyiydi, sıcak dışı çıtır içi yumuşak taze pişmişti. Ekmek içerisindeki yoğurt yakışmıştı. Baget ekmek kullanmaları çok iyi olmuş, çok yakışmış. Tava olarak gelen kalamarları da yine yemek keyifliydi. Tekrar giderim.

Recensione di Kalamar tava di Yehanoha presso Ramen City Ankara, Çankaya/Ankara, Turchia

Tava di Kalamar

Ramen City Ankara

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