Name: Nazende “The Baked Goods”
Address: Remzi Oğuz Arık Mahallesi, Paris Caddesi 28/A Aşağı, Ayrancı, Çankaya, Ankara, 06680, TR
Telephone: (0312) 427 78 40
Rating: 3.3

Türkiye

Turkey

Ankara

Çankaya

Nazende “The Baked Goods”

A baked custard of cream, egg yolks, sugar and vanilla, chilled and then capped with a layer of sugar that is melted under a flame into a glass-thin sheet of caramel: crème brûlée is the dessert whose whole point is the sound of a spoon cracking through the top. The French name dates from a 1691 cookbook by François Massialot, but the dish was being made in Cambridge in the same period as burnt cream, a tradition Trinity College still claims, and the Catalan crema catalana, thickened with cornflour and flavoured with lemon and cinnamon, is older than both. The modern restaurant version is a product of the 1980s, when the blowtorch and the shallow ramekin made the caramel lid reliable and the dessert spread to menus everywhere. The custard underneath is what separates a good one from a bad one; the caramel only decides whether it was finished properly.

The custard is cream, sometimes cut with a little milk, heated with a split vanilla pod and steeped, then whisked into egg yolks beaten with sugar at roughly one yolk per hundred millilitres of cream; the mix is strained, skimmed of foam and poured into wide, shallow dishes. These bake in a water bath at a low oven, 120 to 150°C, for thirty to forty minutes until the custard is set at the edges and still trembling in the centre, then cool and chill for several hours. Just before serving, a thin, even layer of caster or demerara sugar is spread over the surface and caramelised with a blowtorch or under a very hot grill until it bubbles and darkens to amber. It sets within a minute and the dessert is served immediately, while the caramel is hot and brittle and the custard underneath still cold.

Tap the top first: it should crack like ice and shatter into shards, be thin enough to break easily and dark enough to taste bitter against the custard, not pale and sticky and not black. The custard should be smooth, cold, just set, and taste of cream and vanilla with visible seeds, neither sweet enough to compete with the caramel nor eggy. Mark down a rubbery or grainy custard, which was baked too hot; a thin, runny one, which was underbaked; a caramel that has gone soft from sitting, which means it was torched in advance; a thick sugar crust that needs force to break; and a custard that is warm from the flame because the dish was too shallow or the torch too slow. Flavoured versions, lavender, coffee, chocolate, are judged on the same points. A good one is finished in six or seven spoonfuls and leaves the dish clean.

Crème brûlée

Italy

Cream, sugar, vanilla and just enough gelatine to hold a shape when turned out of the mould: that is the entire recipe for panna cotta, Piedmont's chilled pudding, whose name means cooked cream. It is associated with the Langhe hills around Alba and Cuneo, where it was a farmhouse dessert long before it appeared in print; the first cookbook mentions are from the 1960s, and it only became a restaurant standard outside Italy in the 1990s. Its neighbours are the French blancmange and bavarois, which use milk or add whipped cream and egg, and the Spanish and Latin American flan, which sets with eggs in the oven. Panna cotta has no eggs and never sees the oven, which is why a good one is paler, softer and purer in flavour than any of them.

The method is simple and unforgiving. Cream is warmed with sugar and a split vanilla pod to just below a simmer, never boiled, so it keeps its fresh taste; softened gelatine leaves are stirred in off the heat until dissolved, and the mixture is strained into moulds and chilled for at least four hours. The ratio is the entire skill: roughly two grams of gelatine per hundred millilitres of liquid gives a cream that stands up when unmoulded and trembles when the plate is tapped. Piedmontese cooks often cut the cream with a little milk so it is not cloying, and some add a spoon of rum or grappa. Classic accompaniments are a thin caramel, a sauce of wild berries, or in autumn a few drops of the local cooked grape must. The dish is served cold but not fridge-cold, which dulls the vanilla.

Judge the set before anything else. The ideal wobbles as a single mass and yields at the first touch of the spoon; a panna cotta that holds a sharp edge, bounces, or squeaks between the teeth has too much gelatine, which is the most common fault in restaurants that make it in advance. One that collapses into a puddle has too little. Taste for cream: the flavour should be of dairy and vanilla with real seeds visible, not of sugar or artificial essence. Mark down a rubbery texture, a thick skin on top, a grainy or split surface from boiled cream, a sauce so sweet it buries the cream, and flavoured versions, from coffee to matcha, judged against the plain original rather than on their own terms. A plate that arrives with the dessert still in its glass is a shortcut: a proper panna cotta is unmoulded.

Panna cotta

Daha once bir cok yerde panna cotta yedim bu bana gercek panna cotta hissi vermedi, guzel bi tatli ama panna cotta degil, form olarak farkli cikolatasi agir. O fiyata bu tat olmadi

Döner sonrası geldiğimiz bu mekanda Klasiklerden olan bir creme brulee yemek istedim görünüş olarak ne kadar beni cezbetmiş olsa da tat olarak aynı şeyi söyleyemeyeceğim.

Portakal aroması çok fazlaydı. Krem bölümü normalden katıydı daha ipeksi bir kıvam olabilirdi. Şeker kısmında bir sorun yoktu. Ama ilk defa bir tabağımı bitirmeden kalktım.

Nazende “The Baked Goods”

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