Name: Sebo Dede Ekmek Arası, Çankaya/Ankara, Türkiye mekanındaki Kavarma için Yehanoha yorumu
Item: Kavarma
Rating: 3.2
Author: Yehanoha

Pork or chicken cut small, browned in lard and then stewed slowly in its own juices with onion, peppers, tomato and mushrooms until the sauce has cooked down to a thick, glossy coating: kavarma is the Bulgarian stew that arrives in an individual clay pot, often with an egg cracked on top and set in the oven in the last minutes. The name comes from the Turkish kavurma, meaning something fried or seared, a legacy of five centuries of Ottoman rule, but the dish as Bulgaria eats it is its own, built around pork, paprika and the gyuveche, the small earthenware pot that gives the dish its second name. Every region and most households have a version; the mountain towns add more mushrooms, the south more peppers, and some cooks finish with a spoon of white wine or a pinch of savory, the herb Bulgarians call chubritsa.

The meat is pork shoulder or neck, or chicken thigh, cut into pieces of two to three centimetres and browned hard in lard or oil in batches so it colours rather than steams. Onion goes in next and cooks until soft, then red and green peppers, mushrooms, chopped tomato, a spoon of tomato paste, sweet paprika, black pepper, salt and bay. A little stock or wine is added, the lid goes on, and the stew cooks slowly for an hour or more until the pork is tender and the liquid has reduced to a sauce that clings. It is then portioned into individual gyuveche pots, topped if wanted with an egg or a slice of cheese, and baked at a high heat until bubbling and the egg has set with a soft yolk. It comes to the table in the pot, too hot to touch, with bread and, in season, a shopska salad.

Judge the sauce before anything: it should be thick, dark red and reduced, coating the meat, not a thin tomato soup with pieces floating in it. The pork should be tender enough to cut with a spoon but still in pieces, with the browned edges tasting of the sear. Peppers and onion should have melted into the sauce without disappearing, and the paprika should be present as warmth and colour, not raw dust. If there is an egg, the white should be set and the yolk still soft. Mark down watery or acidic sauce, grey meat that was never browned, raw-tasting paprika, a pot that is scalding on the rim but lukewarm in the middle, and a version assembled from reheated stew with a cold egg dropped on. Pots that have sat long enough to form a dry skin lose points, and kavarma without bread is a plate half served.

Kavarma

Türkiye

Sebo Dede Ekmek Arası

Ekmekler kücük. Çöp şiş dışında diğerlerini beğenmedim. Kavurma da kötüydü. Beyaz yakalılara sokak lezzeti satmak için yapılmış bir gurme için abartı mekan.

Sebo Dede Ekmek Arası, Çankaya/Ankara, Türkiye mekanındaki Kavarma için Yehanoha yorumu

Kavurma

Sebo Dede Ekmek Arası

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