Name: Avis sur Cotoletta alla Milanese par turgaysaba chez Milan, Metropolitan City of Milan, Italie
Item: Cotoletta alla Milanese
Rating: 3.2
Author: turgaysaba

Italy

A veal rib chop on the bone, egged, breadcrumbed and fried in clarified butter until the crust is deep gold and the meat inside is just cooked: the cotoletta alla milanese is Milan's defining dish, and the city is particular about every part of that sentence. It is veal, not pork or chicken; it keeps its bone, which is why it is a cotoletta from costola, rib, and not a scaloppina; and it is cooked in butter, not oil. The dispute with Vienna over who fed the recipe to whom has run since the nineteenth century, with a Milanese monastery menu of 1134 listing lombolos cum panitio usually cited as the city's evidence. Two shapes coexist today: the traditional thick chop, two fingers deep and pink at the bone, and the orecchia d'elefante, the elephant's ear, pounded thin and wide enough to cover the plate, boneless and cooked through.

The chop is cut from the loin with the rib attached, trimmed of its outer fat and, for the thick version, lightly flattened so it cooks evenly. It is dipped in beaten egg, sometimes after a dusting of flour, then pressed firmly into fine dry breadcrumbs made from stale white bread, never panko, so the coating is tight and even. Clarified butter is heated in a wide pan to a lively but not smoking heat, and the chop fries for four to six minutes a side depending on thickness, basted with the butter, until the crust is uniformly golden and the meat near the bone reads a faint pink. The elephant's ear takes two minutes a side. It rests briefly, is salted on the plate, and is served with lemon wedges and little else: in Milan a few leaves of rocket and cherry tomatoes are a modern addition, and potatoes or risotto alongside are a restaurant's choice, not the rule.

Judge the crust and the meat separately. The crust should be fine-grained, crisp and evenly coloured, bonded to the meat so that cutting does not lift it off in a sheet; a crust that slides away, is pale in patches, or glistens with oil was cooked in the wrong fat or at the wrong heat. The veal should be tender and moist, pink at the bone in the thick version, with the clean taste of butter in the coating. Mark down a chop fried in oil, which tastes flat, a crust made from coarse or seasoned crumbs, pork or turkey passed off as veal, a dry grey interior, and a chop served swimming in sauce or buried under tomato and cheese, which is a different dish from a different country. The bone is part of the deal, and the lemon is the only sauce.

Cotoletta alla Milanese

Milan

The food was too heavy and greasy, and you can’t really taste the flavor of the meat. I think the traditional one is cooked in a pan. I will try that next time.

Avis sur Cotoletta alla Milanese par turgaysaba chez Milan, Metropolitan City of Milan, Italie

Cotoletta à la milanaise

Milan

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