Name: Avis sur Keşkek par Yehanoha chez Melek Abla'nın Yeri, Kuşadası/Aydın, Turquie
Item: Keşkek
Rating: 4.6
Author: Yehanoha

Hulled wheat and meat, usually lamb or chicken, boiled together for hours and then beaten with wooden paddles until the grain breaks down and the meat shreds into a thick, elastic porridge, served with a pool of hot butter and red pepper on top: keşkek is the ceremonial dish of Anatolia, cooked in cauldrons for weddings, circumcisions, funerals and the first day of Ramadan. UNESCO listed the keşkek tradition as intangible cultural heritage in 2011, for the communal cooking as much as the food: the wheat is washed and pounded the day before, the pots go onto wood fires before dawn, and the beating is done in turns by the men of the village. Relatives exist from the Balkans to Iran, where harisa and haleem follow the same idea; in Türkiye it is strongest in the Aegean, the Black Sea and central Anatolia, and every province claims a version.

Aşurelik buğday, wheat with the bran removed, is soaked overnight. It goes into the pot with the meat, bone-in lamb shoulder or a whole chicken, plenty of water and salt, and simmers for four to six hours until the grains have burst and the meat falls from the bone. The bones are lifted out, and then the work starts: the pot is beaten with a long wooden spoon or a paddle, dövmek, for half an hour or more, until the wheat and meat have become one smooth, stringy mass that holds a spoon upright and stretches when lifted. The consistency is adjusted with broth. To serve, a ladle is pressed into a shallow bowl and a hollow made in the top, into which melted butter, often with sweet or hot red pepper, is poured; some regions add a spoon of tomato sauce or cumin. It is eaten hot with bread and pickles or a glass of ayran.

Judge the texture first, because it is the point: keşkek should be smooth and glutinous, with the wheat fully broken down and the meat present as fibres rather than pieces, and it should pull slightly when the spoon lifts. Grainy wheat means it was undercooked or underbeaten; a watery, soupy bowl means too much broth; a gluey paste with no meat flavour means too little meat. Taste for the meat and the wheat together, salted properly and seasoned mostly by the butter and pepper on top. Mark down a bowl with the butter already absorbed and cold, a greyish mass with no visible meat, a blender-smooth version that lacks the fibrous pull of hand-beaten keşkek, and any portion that tastes of stock cube. Served at a wedding from a cauldron it will be judged on generosity; in a restaurant, on whether the kitchen did the beating.

Keşkek

Türkiye

Melek Abla'nın Yeri

Dokusu ve tadı oldukça iyi yarma buğday iyi pişmiş sert değil, içerisindeki et keşkekle bütünleşmiş. Üzerine ek olarak gelen kavurma da gayet yumuşaktı. Tavsiye ederim.

Avis sur Keşkek par Yehanoha chez Melek Abla'nın Yeri, Kuşadası/Aydın, Turquie

Keşkek

Melek Abla'nın Yeri

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