Etli ekmek

Konya's answer to lahmacun is etli ekmek, meat bread: a strip of thin dough a metre or more long, spread with a mince of lamb, onion and tomato and baked in a stone oven until the edges blister, then cut into hand-width pieces and served with a lemon and a plate of raw onion. It is the everyday lunch of central Anatolia, sold in fırın bakeries where the ovens run from early morning, and it is tied to Konya the way pide is tied to the Black Sea. The differences from lahmacun matter: etli ekmek is oval and very long rather than round, the dough is a little thicker and softer, the meat layer is thinner and spread edge to edge, and the seasoning is milder, with no chilli heat. Variants add cheese (kaşarlı), egg, or a layer of thin pastırma; a version with only cheese and herbs is sold as peynirli.